Left our "boarding room" pad (above the bar, pool hall, award-winning soup restaurant) early, in the light of the full moon. 19 miles ahead! Oops! It was pretty dark and what if we miss a waymark in the donzerly light!?

But all good. Spent an hour or so on a wooded trail behind an ancient looking wall and some surprisingly tony homes. Hit a busy town, popped into a nice cafe for morning coffee and cake.

Met Nicolau here, a rather tall, reddish-haired Portuguese businessman. A former and future pilgrim. Heard tales of people spending a decade or more on the Camino. Asked that when we get to Santiago, if we see Adriano in red robes, tell him "Nicolau is ok".

Besides town water fountains, we also saw ancient stone tubs, which are apparently still used! Friday is washer day.